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Member
Posts: 580
Location: Green Bay, WI | My question is this, if you stack a Deep Junior(DJ) and a Junior(J) how deep is it running? Or a Rattle Tot and a Thunder Stick? Does anyone have a general rule for this? Or do you just experiment? | |
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Member
Posts: 2680
Location: Essexville, MI./Saginaw Bay. | Originally written by BeFishin on 2004-01-06 10:20 AM
My question is this, if you stack a Deep Junior(DJ) and a Junior(J) how deep is it running? Or a Rattle Tot and a Thunder Stick? Does anyone have a general rule for this? Or do you just experiment?
BeFishin.
The running depth of crank-on-crank stacking would be less than any single cranks maximum diving depth. I'd take away at least 3 to 5 feet of the posted maximum diving depth if you stack crank-on-crank. The lines angle to the bottom crank is lessened when you add another crank above it. Not allowing it to dive at it's proper diving angle and reach it's maximum diving depth.
Your talking to a stacking junkie. I've been experimenting with stacking cranks, spoons and harnesses for walleyes since the early 80's on Saginaw Bay. I've had some success with crank on crank stackings when running shallow diving cranks that float on the top and deep divers on the bottom. I.E. Floating Rapala top/Rattle Tot bottom. It's when you stall on turns or stop the boat where you get in serious trouble. Both stay perfectly straight in the water column when running and both will float up together when stalled.
Running spoons in conjunction with cranks on the other hand, has caused me little if any trouble. A spoons tendency is to rise up when running through the water. It also tows out to the side or lags in when you turn. It's running dynamics in a way, keeps it away from the cranks straight running profile and it's running path.
Edited by walleye express 1/6/2004 12:23 PM
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Member
Posts: 580
Location: Green Bay, WI | W.E.,
You were the guy I was hoping would bite on this thread.
Yes that is one of my concerns, ending up with a tangled mess of crankbaits. Have you ever tried a sinking bait on the bottom, like a rattletrap, that way when you stall or stop, the two baits go in the opposite direction?
As far as spoons go, are you talking about a light spoon, like you would use for salmon or a heavier spoon like a cleo? I would think the cleo would cause problems with a tot when you stall or stop?
FYI - Here in WI, we can use three lines a person and I only have six rod holders on my boat. This setup works fine with just two of us in the boat, but when I have more than two I'd like to run more lines. A stacked rod counts as two lines, so with three people in the boat I can run three rods with a stacked setup. Also stacked versus more lines mean less boards going in and out of the water.
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Member
Posts: 2680
Location: Essexville, MI./Saginaw Bay. | Originally written by BeFishin on 2004-01-06 11:27 AM
W.E.,
You were the guy I was hoping would bite on this thread.
Yes that is one of my concerns, ending up with a tangled mess of crankbaits. Have you ever tried a sinking bait on the bottom, like a rattletrap, that way when you stall or stop, the two baits go in the opposite direction?
#1. Sinking cranks like Rattle Traps do not have a diving bill, and in general run shallower and track very different when trolled than even the shallowest running crankbaits. This would have the crank on top running into it and or it's tether line, even more-so than two diving cranks of different diving depths.
As far as spoons go, are you talking about a light spoon, like you would use for salmon or a heavier spoon like a cleo? I would think the cleo would cause problems with a tot when you stall or stop?
#2. Yes, cleos are to heavy and would have to be trolled at exccessive speeds to keep them running above the crank. I use two or three brand name hammered flutter spoons in the 2 5/8 length mostly. I use them by themselves or when I tie my spoon harness rigs. They are very light, and even with the added weight of the crawler and other component parts I add for the proper fuctioning of my rigs, never tangled me once last summer during my charters.
FYI - Here in WI, we can use three lines a person and I only have six rod holders on my boat. This setup works fine with just two of us in the boat, but when I have more than two I'd like to run more lines. A stacked rod counts as two lines, so with three people in the boat I can run three rods with a stacked setup. Also stacked versus more lines mean less boards going in and out of the water.
#3. As a side note, I run my top lure/spoon as a slider, versus being permanently attached to a 3 way swivel. This allows you to quickly and efficiently let the main crank out first without the worry of them tangleing on the way out. Also lessens the drag put on the main line when the top lure can slide up and down the line without to much angle pull.
I then attach the spoon slider to the main line and let it slide down to the stopper above the crank while I'm moving along and attaching it to my planner board line. I've often caught walleyes on the slider spoon before it even gets to the stopper above the crank as it works it's way down through the water column. It sounds like rocket science, but once you get it down, she's one sweet technique thats quick and easy. Not only that, but a technique that both the fish and the fishermen haven't seen or used before.
Edited by walleye express 1/6/2004 1:23 PM
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Member
Posts: 183
Location: Menasha, Wis. | Walleye Express,
Whose spoons do you prefer for walleye on Saginaw Bay?
Appreciate all the info you share with us!!
Happy fishing to all  | |
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Member
Posts: 2680
Location: Essexville, MI./Saginaw Bay. | Jim.
I prefer the Streak Jr.s. These are made by Silver Streak spoons. But Streak Jr. is all that is printed on the package you take off the rack at Franks. I tried to buy some of these in quantity for my spoon harness rigs I build and sell, but they wanted almost as much wholesale as they did retail for them, even when buying 100 at a time. I got a decent deal from the Finlander Company and the two spoons are indentical, with only color patterns being different.
The Silver/Rainbow trout pattern kicked walleye buttox last year, fallowed closely by the Purple/Chartreuse pattern. These ran great as sliders above and with Rattle Tot's and Winning Streaks as the crank leading the way. Both of these cranks also dredged up some nice walleyes between spoon duties.
Also got some neat spoons from Jan's Net Craft I know will work as well. Seems a lot depended on the size of the spoon last year. Our baitfish were more abundant last summer, but smaller in size overall it seemed. I actually was freaking out catching walleyes 5 pounds or bigger on these little 2 5/8" spoons.
Edited by walleye express 1/6/2004 6:54 PM
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Stacking cranks with a three way swivel