|
|
| I have a question that this is probably the dumbest question you've heard of but I need some input. I recently picked up a 1890 with a 200 Opti and this is my very first console boat with this much hp. I took her out for it's very first run tonight and I experienced something I never had happen before since I've run tillers for years. When I took off the bow of the boat wanted to hop up and down like I was in rough water but the lake was was flat calm. I assume it is a trim issue but when I trimmed the 200 all the way down and then when I got on plane I trimmed it up and still had some hop. It would also hop on me when I backed off from full throttle to 1/2 throttle. I played with the trim but it seemed like it was still not quite right. How can I remedy this? Are the 1890's sensitive to the trim level? Is it the stupid driver, me, or is there a certain trim trick to prevent this? My buddy has a 1900 ProV with a 150 and he doesn't have this "hop" regardless where his trim is at on take off or on plane.
I absolutely LOVE this rig but I guess I need a little driving lesson.
Jeff |
|
|
|
| Sounds like you are trimming the motor up too far at too slow a speed. Most glass boats made to run fast on a pad are sensitive to trim amount esp in the mid rpm and speed ranges. Keep playing with it and don't overtrim. Once you learn to drive it trimming the right amount will become second nature. |
|
|
|
Location: Rhinelander | As you bring the boat up on plane, you want the trim all the way down. Trim the boat only enough for it to 'lift' as you power it to full throttle, don't overtrim. As you slow down or begin a turn trim down at the same time. The 1890 is a high performance hull, and is sensitive to trim.
Do you have your gear in the front storage yet? |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 1991
| Do what Steve says.
This what I have found, I came from a Lund Mr Pike 17 with a 115, a old lady could drive that boat.
I have a 1890 with a 200, it is more trim and weight sensitive, after a bit you will get it down.
Here is what I have learned you dont need alot of trim below 35 mph, just a touch of angle, above lets say 40 you can start trimming up more, above 45 I can usally add more trim, 50 and above I can run full trim angle. There is alot of natural lift in that hull, it is like driving a bass boat. You have to also drive with the trim and throttle.
At WOT full trim there is not much hull touching, I wsa down in Red Wing Sat on Pool 4 fishing and I was running WOT stopped to fish and a Ranger guy commented that thing looked like a missale coming down the river, on the way back I had some guys in Rangers 620's with 225 HO thought they where going to pass me, I was pulling away.
SO get some time on the water, I love my 1890, smooth dry and FAST
Edited by moreyes 5/10/2007 5:28 AM
|
|
|
|
| I have a question that this is probably the dumbest question you've heard of but I need some input.
lol! that's not a dumb question at all.
i've just made the switch this spring myself from running tillers to running the 1890 with a 200 Opti on it. it's a pretty big difference, you're definitely right about that. that boat stands on it's tail coming out of the hole...like sitting on a rocket. man!
i experienced the same thing you describe, bow "hop" getting on plane as well as coming off plane. this was especially true when i tried to "nancy" the boat slowly onto plane.
the advice people listed is right on - by keeping it trimmed down a little more than i'm used to it eliminated the issue. i'm already improving my "touch" of when to increase or decrease the trim based on speed and whether i'm accelerating or decelerating. and using the full power of the motor to get on plane "right now" solves it nicely.
i've also experienced a 5 degree list to the right if i'm over-trimmed down at mid/slower speeds. i assume it's the prop turning the boat the direction of spin because of all the power sitting back there. that's a situation i've got to trim up more.
the next step for me is to get used to running _through_ waves. my instinct is still to back off the throttle when the boat jumps or pushes off a big wave. that's a bad habit that i'll change as my confidence with the boat grows.
|
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 3899
| Same here. I am learning to drive the boat better every time I am out. It really doesn't like to be driven slow! What is happening, is it is in between running on the pad, and not. It gets on the pad, then the front falls down, and so on. I found that when that happens, you can recover by wiggling the boat side to side with the wheel, and it will settle down some. I first drove the boat last year. Zach's boat. My comment even then, was you have to drive this boat with the trim.
What prop do you have? What hole is your motor in? Do you have any weight in the front? Livewell full? Gas tank Full?
I'm running a Rev4 21P right now. The motor is all the way down, 1st hole. I'm going to try a 23P HiFive, and also a 21P Tempest. But I am going to try raisning the motor a hole, and see if that helps any.
Like I said, I'm getting better at driving the boat. I don't think I bounced at all last night on GB. The boat likes to run, so do I! |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 1991
| I tried a Enertia 21 then a Rev 4 21 I found it much easier to drive with the Rev.
Again weight distribution is more a factor on this boat than my Lund
Shep post any changes if you raise the engine I have thought about that.
Edited by moreyes 5/10/2007 4:06 PM
|
|
|
|
| Thanks for the great input guys. I really appreciate it.
I bought this rig from Worrall a couple weeks ago and he did tell me about the trim and I knew it was going to be a big change from a 75hp aluminum tiller to a 200hp fiberglass. It just caught me off guard the first time out. I just needed some more input to help shorten the learning curve. Our walleye opener is this weekend here in MN and I'll be on the water all weekend so there'll be plenty of time to work on the "feel" on how to run her.
I may want to try the Rev 4 if it eases things a bit. It's got a 21 High 5 on her now. But I don't want to scrub too much speed cause the 1 thing I did find out last night that it is a freaking rocket! I was smiling ear to ear....like a kid in a candy store.
Jeff
|
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 1991
| Jeff,
The High should be good choice.
Where are you doing opener in MN? See you on the water, another Tuffy in MN |
|
|
|
| moreyes,
We'll be up on Little Boy and Wabedo by Longville. We did rather well there last year. Not too crowded. Room to move around.
Jeff |
|
|
|
| You may want to look at moving your motor up another one or two holes. I don't have the 1890 but a 2060 tiller with a 140 Suzuki. I have the motor mounted on the 4th hole up. Just a thought!
Tim |
|
|
|
| Isn't the phenomenon you are speaking of porpoising? I believe that most times this is a weight distribution issue with typically too much weight back in the hull. You could try moving some weight up towards the bow and this could help.
|
|
|
|
| ok, let's revisit the porpoising issue...
my boat performs like a rocket out of hole and running on plane with two people in it.
add a 3rd passenger and it won't stay on plane. it'll get up and goes plenty fast, but starts to porpoise wildly to the point that you have to stop b/c it's too rough and starts to get dangerous.
obviously, it's a weight distribution issue, but short of adding a couple hundred pounds to the bow, what i can do to keep the boat ridable with more than 2 people on board? would a prop change make a difference? (i've got a 3-blade tempest now)
Edited by lambeau 6/16/2007 12:00 PM
|
|
|
|
| more of the same today...running by myself this time.
gets up on plane instantly, and runs fastfastfast WOT.
but when running 3/4 throttle ~45mph when i crossed wakes from other boats it would start to porpoise pretty bad. (i'm low on fuel, so that's less weight forward, but i've got the full windshield so that should add some pounds.)
i'd give up a couple mph's to get a "grippier" ride.
prop suggestions?
|
|
|
|
| Trim down immediately as you slow down...always. At about 3/4 throttle, you will get some hop, that's the boat getting on the pad and not holding because of the speed and throttle. Always run trimmed all the way down if you need to go slow trimming up only enough to get the ride you want. Same with a heavier than normal load.
The best prop for that boat for all around use is a 21 pitch High 5. |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 1991
| I would see if some one has a high 5 or a Rev 4 you could try to see if it helps, I have had good results with my Rev 4.
On other thing when I run by my self I found the adding ballest to the passenger side helps alot, I am not a light weight, with the ballest it makes the boat run flat side to side, so I use one of those sand tubes.
By the way follow some of bass boat sites it appears that boats with a "pad" have similar issues, Triton Bass Cat etc.... |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 1991
| http://www.walleyecentral.com/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=6&...
The big name guys have set up issues to |
|
|
|
| Where are the batteries on that beast?? I wonder if there are ways to fix weight by moving items more forward (If batteries are int he back).
It seems as if all boat manufactures are having issues with these heavy four strokes. |
|
|
|
| Batteries are located underneath the rod locker which is located in the middle of the boat. So there actually pretty far forward. |
|
|
|
| lambeau,
I started this thread and since then I've had the rig in the water a ton and the issue in question is "almost" a memory for me. I've really been able to "learn" to drive this rig. Even been able to so called "grandma" the thing up on plane without problems. When I have just 2 in the boat I just nail it and I'm fine. But with 3 or more in the boat I found that if I just take just a little more time and roll into the throttle I don't porpoise. It's not as fun as to just nailing the throttle but if it keeps me from porpoising then oh well.
The only gear I have up front is 4 Plano boxes of muskie lures in the comparment nearest to the cockpit, 8 rods in the locker, 2 Trojan batteries and a MinnKota charger underneath and in the big compartment a drift sock and life jackets. I have my 2 big Lakewood boxes full of lures, a small cooler with lunch/beverages and whatever my partner brings along all in the rear of the boat. So that's how the weight is distributed in my 1890. The one thing I'm still working on is trying to keep her from listing a bit when I'm slowing to a spot.
Prop wise...it's a High 5. I haven't tried other props so I can't make a comparison to..say..a Rev 4 or Tempest.
Jeff Young |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 1991
| Jeff is the listing problem when you are by yourself?
I dont have that problem with a passenger, and sometimes by myself, I weigh 240, I found that when I am by myself I add some weight on the passenger side between the seat base and the hull, I use one of those sand tubes, makes a world of difference when coming off plane and quartering big waves on Mille Lacs |
|
|
|
| I am having the exact same problems running my 1890. It porpoises wildly no matter what I do. I can't even use the trim. I keep the trim all the way in and the bow bounces out of control, even in 1' waves. I have a 200 opti with a 9.9 pro kicker, mounted on the drivers side, 21P Rev 4 prop. The 200 is mounted all the way down. The boat also tilts to the port side, with 1 or 2 people on board. I have placed as much weight towards the bow as possible, and it doesn't matter if the gas tank is full or 1/4 full. Last week on Lake of the Woods, the only time I could run fast was when it was dead calm, and even then when crossing another boats' wake it would start to bounce the hull. Once the bow starts to bounce it gets worse forcing me to slow way down. Are you guys telling me that I should stay on gas when the bow is bouncing until it gets up on plane and then trim it out? It's a pretty wild ride. Thanks |
|
|
|
| sounds like your motor might be mounted to high |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 1991
| You dont need much trim, along with the throttle you need to use the trim button, just dont run the trim up and leave it there,my old Lund I could run the trim up all the way at most speeds with out bounce, I do know that if on my Lund I tried to take off with to much trim it would bounce, but not as much but that a 17' with a 115 hp, a kitty cat.
Spend some time on the water , lighten up on the trim, use a bit at a time. This boat is like a bass boat, weight balence is more critical, I run additional weight on the passenger side when I am by myself.
My neighbor has MN made glass boat and he runs two sand bags in the bow to keep it from porpising
The engine hight on mine is one up I might try one more if I can get a lifting ring. |
|
|
|
Location: Rhinelander | Actually, his motor is/was too low. A high 5 and one hole up and the boat runs great; no problems. All the symptoms mentioned will disappear! |
|
|
|
| here's some related reading...enjoy!
Driving a performance boat:
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?CMID=&objec...
Props:
http://sites.mercurymarine.com/portal/page?_pageid=126,48572,126_49...
|
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 12
| When I got my 2060 with the 250 Verado from Zach I had the same problem.
After looking in the front battery compartment and finding a big bag of sand,
which I removed, I took her out for the first time and got the same hop you
guys are discussing. I put the bag of sand back in the 3rd battery compartment,
and as someone said, learned how to drive it and have had no problem since.
This boat works the best if you leave it trimmed down until you have her about
40 mph and then start trimming up. As you get used to doing this it gets to be and
automatic thing that happens simultaneously. Then just sit back and enjoy.
I also noticed that if I trim down before I pull the throttle back it settles down in the water wwithout hopping.
WKW |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 1991
| What excactly causes porpising/bow hop? |
|
|
|
| i added 2 anchors and a bag of misc weight to the front storage compartment, topped off the gas tank, and was amazed at the difference. it planes quicker, and runs much much smoother, easily cutting across wakes, etc., and could still run upper 50s without trying hard. having the boat run steady even at high speed is a very good feeling.
adding weight up front helped a TON, so will my new Hi-5 prop when it arrives which should provide more lift in back. it clearly takes a little work and experimentation, but once you get the weight balanced properly for your configuration it'll balance nicely on the pad and run right.
|
|
|
|
| Ive been really wanting an 1890GC for next year ,,But after reading the last posts, Im not sure if I want to spend 35K+ for a boat I have to put sand bags in and also hope the dealer puts the motor in the right hole with the right prop!!! It seems that somethings amiss here...Please someone clear this up for me...... |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 1991
| What kind of boat do you have now? |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 1382
| Every boat in the world needs to be rigged properly to run correctly.
Also, there is absolutely no need to ballast the bow of the 1890. It only needs the correct prop and the engine mounted at the proper height to achieve optimum performance. |
|
|
|
Location: Rhinelander | I'm having my 1890 GC dual Console rigged right now by Mr. Marine in Fond du Lac. I'll post how she runs as soon as I get her on the water. One hole up with a 23 pitch high 5, she ought to be perfect. |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 1991
| Worried - 7/16/2007 2:40 PM
Ive been really wanting an 1890GC for next year ,,But after reading the last posts, Im not sure if I want to spend 35K+ for a boat I have to put sand bags in and also hope the dealer puts the motor in the right hole with the right prop!!! It seems that somethings amiss here...Please someone clear this up for me......
every boat manufacture has different boat set ups , every boat handles different, hop over to the some of the bass boat sites. When you get into the high performance hulls they are just that, I came from a Lund and after a bit of time behind the wheel I love my 1890 |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 20
| I have had a large number of people in my 1890, as I run a guide business. The one comment I hear over and over again is "I can't believe how smooth this boat rides." The 1890 hull is one of the best rides I have ever been in bar none. I just sold mine and ordered another one, how is that for an endorsement.
All that being said, I can get my boat to porpoise or hop or whatever you want to call it on demand. It is a hull that needs to be driven not just throttle and go. If you over trim it to early it will hop, if you wait until the boat gets out of the water and up to about 35mph to start trimming it, you shouldn't have a single issue. Driven properly it is the best running boat I have ever been in, and I have been in alot of them.
I am running a 200 Suzi on mine with a 3x16x23 prop. I carry no sandbags, no anchors, no extra weight of any kind. The only weight in my front storages are tools and lifejackets. Use your trim switch properly and you will be fine. |
|
|
|
| 1700GT,,Just love it..But want biger for mainly for Mille Lacs,,, |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 3899
| Where do you live, Worried? We'll get you in a boat, and you'll be able to experience how well these boats perform. If you are looking at a GT, then we'll get you in Steve's, or Justin's. |
|
|
|
| You could always call me, I have the 1890 and get get you a ride. Mine is an 06' and is set to go on the market soon (cheap I might add)
612-232-7188 is my cell number, give me a call and we can set a test run if you would like. |
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 20
| If you are in Northern WI I also can get you a ride. The one I am in currently is sold, but will have it for a couple of weeks yet.
If you want a ride in an '08 I will have it sometime in August.
email - [email protected]
|
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 1040
Location: Stevens Point, WI | My 1760DW is always open for a ride also if your in the Eagle River area at all. |
|
|
|
| I have had a cmc elec-hydr jackplate on my last 5 boats. The current one is a 05 2060 dc it allows you to adapt to any condition and eliminate porposing , fixes hole shot no matter how much weight you do or do not have in your boat . But as was said by others it still takes some seat time to learn how to use it. I will never own another outboard wheel boat without a adjustible jackplate it is the best $700 you can spend on your boat. |
|
|
|
| Thanks for all the help and offers for test rides..Im looking for the boat that fits just right for my retirment which isnt to to far off (34mos. but whos counting!). Im in northern Wi. Ive think Ive got it down to a 1760GC or 1890GC so Im tring to do a lot of homework on the boats,,,Im looking to buy in the fall or early next spring. Ill be in contact with you guys for the test rides .....Thanks ,,Eric Maley/Danbury Wi... |
|
|
|
| Eric...give me a call or email.
i spent 5 summers working in Danbury and usually get up there to fish Lake 26 at least one time in the fall.
(608) 844-1382
[email protected]
|
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 273
| I really don't have any experiences with the 1890. But I have spent a lot of time in a 1760, so if you have any questions I'd be happy to answer them. You can pm me here on the site or e-mail me at [email protected] |
|
|