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Member
Posts: 2680
Location: Essexville, MI./Saginaw Bay. | With the way that I rig my main lines for trolling. That is with a beaded chain swivel 30 inches in front of the end of the main line, I thought I'd cut and re-configure some bottom bouncers so I could quickly change the sizes/weights that I used. I most often run sliders above crankbaits or harnesses of all types and like using a beaded swivel above and up the line a bit with all of these to keep them from twisting the line. So I thought reconfiguring some bouncers in different sizes to be able to hook onto these beaded swivels would give me the same rig with less time wasted changing over the whole BB rig and weight. Simple side cutters and a Spinner building tool made it easy enough. Heres the results. There may already be something like this out there, but I haven't seen it.
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 IM001419.JPG (18KB - 98 downloads)
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| Ole perchjerker did some for me like that. Basically a light handlining weight. I use them on 3-way rigs on the River almost like a handlining shank, and to poleline. Work great. |
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Member
Posts: 2680
Location: Essexville, MI./Saginaw Bay. | Yupper Terror.
Now that you mention that, I do seem to remember Brain making something exactly like that. Proving once again that there are very few truly new Ideas when it come to fishing.  |
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Member
Posts: 141
Location: Oshkosh, WI | I am a novice user of trolling boards - any advice would be appreciated.
Do you generally run weights in front of crankbaits? I think this would minimize tangling up boards (something I do ALL the time) and make it quicker to get baits in and fish out of the water.
I have hesitated to do this for fear of messing up the action of the baits. This might be a different matter depending on the water depth one fishes (I fish Winnebago).
What are folks' thoughts on this topic?
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Member
Posts: 2680
Location: Essexville, MI./Saginaw Bay. | I don't often run weights in front of cranks but do so on occassion for a couple of reasons. One is to get smaller cranks deeper then they would usually run. Often smaller cranks are more inticing even to bigger fish holding in deeper waters.
My second reason is to do what you mentioned. And that is use less line to accomplish depths that woould usually take 120 to 180 feet of line let out. I also use weights when adding a piece of nightcrawler to the belly hooks of my cranks. Even though adding this small piece of meat to the cranks wil not change it's action to much, it will reduce it's diving range. Adding the weight gets it back down where I want it. |
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| Same here. I have great luck running shallow stickbaits down 20'+ in the River. Deep divers just don't have the same effect for me and I can't get any Shad Rap that deep either. I'll use an inline sinker with a 5-6' lead back to the lure, or use Dan's type weight in the rocky areas all tied together at a 3-way. |
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Member
Posts: 43
| On a weekend trip to the Islands area on June 9,10 & 11, our largest walleyes came on Ripsticks put on a 5' lead behind a 2 ounce bottom bouncer behind a planer board at a 44' setback in 35' of water doing 1.8 mph. I think this is commonly called a Dubuque rig as it is used a lot on the Miss. and other rivers. Main thing is putting about the same size body of a Reef Runner deep diver but without trying to run a deep diver behind a bouncer. Last weekend when back in the same area, the only thing which would go after the Ripsticks were sheephead. I switched to a green puke scorpion on the same 5' lead behind the 2 oz bouncer and it got two walleyes and two sheep. That's better than ten sheep, no walleyes on the Ripstick. Maybe a Dubuque rig is a floating crankbait behind a three way swivel with a bell sinker off the bottom of the swivel to get it down. Principle is the same.
I forgot to mention that I prerig all my L shaped bottom bouncers by tying a short piece of 25# mono to the "R" bend and then put a surgeon's end loop above that. I can switch from a 2 ounce to a 3 ounce bottom bouncer in the time it takes to unsnap and resnap two snaps, one on the line and the one on the bouncer. I have a cross-lock snap on the end of all my trolling lines so I can take the bouncer off quickly and attach a crankbait if I desire. Hardest part of all was finding a plastic tackle box with no dividers in which to store all my prerigged bouncers.
Edited by Rod Holder 7/11/2007 2:55 PM
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