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Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [25 messages per page] Walleye Fishing -> General Discussion -> Black Hose versus Gray Hose. |
Message Subject: Black Hose versus Gray Hose. | |||
walleye express![]() |
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![]() Member Posts: 2680 Location: Essexville, MI./Saginaw Bay. | I've had a Yamaha 1988, 90 horse 2 cycle Jet Drive motor on my SmokerCraft Jet Boat for roughly 26 years now. This boat and motor have performed flawlessly during all those years in the hottest and coldest of temperatures that Michigan can dish out. In all those years I've changed the spark plugs on the motor a total of 3 times. Twice just because I thought it was a good idea. For the Lack of grief and dependability all these years, this rig doesn't owe me a dime. In the last 2 trips while trolling at Idle RPM's the engine has seemed to run out of gas and I have to hurry and pump the tank primer Ball to get the pressure back into the hose. This problem seemed to start right after my favorite Marathon Gas station had their holding tanks and pumps replaced. Seems they went from 10% alcohol to 15%. After all these years, I figure this would not matter with oil injection. Anyway, I took my entire hose off (thinking it had a small hole worn in it someplace causing it to lose prime) and took it to be duplicated at my favorite Marina and supply store. I was asked to bring my boat in after the hose passed the leak test and before another Black Hose duplication and they found micro pieces of black rubber in all my carbs on the motor. I was told that the new alcohol content was melting/breaking down the black rubber and that I should replace it with the new (more expensive) Gray rubber which is alcohol proof. Does this sound right to all you guys? Edited by walleye express 8/1/2013 9:42 AM
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Shep![]() |
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Member Posts: 3899 | Yes. But it's not the 15% that did it. It's been happening for as long as you've been using alcohol. I would see if yammy has carb rebuild kits with the new gasket material, too. And maybe even the fuel pump. | ||
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walleye express![]() |
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![]() Member Posts: 2680 Location: Essexville, MI./Saginaw Bay. | Shep - 8/1/2013 10:51 AM Yes. But it's not the 15% that did it. It's been happening for as long as you've been using alcohol. I would see if yammy has carb rebuild kits with the new gasket material, too. And maybe even the fuel pump. Ouch, I didn't want to hear that. ![]() Edited by walleye express 8/1/2013 11:24 AM | ||
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Car Man![]() |
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New User Posts: 3 | Shep is right. In an engine that old it has been a process over time that the 10% has started and the 15% has pushed over the top. 15% should not be used in any outboard especially one that old. Once the fuel system is cleaned/repaired, including the tank, you should use fuel with no alcohol/ethanol if possible. If that is not possible, use 10% with one of the many additives available to help with this issue. Check this site for pure gas in your area. http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp | ||
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walleye express![]() |
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![]() Member Posts: 2680 Location: Essexville, MI./Saginaw Bay. | Car Man - 8/1/2013 12:39 PM Shep is right. In an engine that old it has been a process over time that the 10% has started and the 15% has pushed over the top. 15% should not be used in any outboard especially one that old. Once the fuel system is cleaned/repaired, including the tank, you should use fuel with no alcohol/ethanol if possible. If that is not possible, use 10% with one of the many additives available to help with this issue. Check this site for pure gas in your area. http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp Thank's for the info. Looks like I'll have to stick with 10%. The only locations listed at puregas.org are marinas with gas prices off the chart. But she goes in tomorrow morning and everything gets checked and/or replaced if it even looks like it might fail. My gas can filling habbits will be restricted and regimented from here on out. I owe the old girl that much. ![]() Edited by walleye express 8/1/2013 5:23 PM | ||
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FishnFool![]() |
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Member Posts: 113 | Black hose,grey hose they are both breaking down I had it happen on my merc which I just rebuilt put new hoses on when I did the rebuild, the inner lining in the grey hose came apart. you need to use an additive like seafoam or Amsoil product which is a stabilizer and fuel additive. Here in wisconsin we can still get non formulated gas and can still have problems. run premium, itwill help and if you dont have a water seperator fuel filter I would put one in. your motor has one but this is a bigger canaster and will help hold water which is produce with ethanoel. | ||
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walleye express![]() |
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![]() Member Posts: 2680 Location: Essexville, MI./Saginaw Bay. | They replaced the fuel pump (it to is 26 years old), checked all carb gaskets and rubber lines, emptied/cleaned out the seperator bowl and replaced the black hose and pump bulb with another black hose and pump ball. They ran the motor at idle for 20 minutes and it never missed a beat. I also bought a case of their Yamaha recommended gas additive. 1 bottle treats 24 gallons which is not that bad of a deal for me with how close I live to the great fishing. I usually use only 6 or 7 gallons total per 5 hour trip. Good now for another 26 years or when Obama forces us to go to solor powered engines. ![]() Edited by walleye express 8/5/2013 8:18 AM | ||
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Shep![]() |
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Member Posts: 3899 | The newer motors like my Opti's were all made to accept 10% ethanol. I'm sure all the mafg's do the same on current motors. All fuel line and gaskets are made to tolerate ethanol. I think the gaskets are Viton? I don't know if the new fuel pump for that motor has the ethanol tolerant gasket and diaphragm or not. Possible it does. You certainly can get fuel line that is resistant to ethanol. I would expect the new bulbs should be resistant as well. Metals that have been shown to degrade over time in the presence of high-level alcohol blends include brass,(floats & jets) lead, zinc(carb bodies) and lead-based solder. Nonmetallic materials that degrade when in contact with ethanol include natural rubber, polyurethane, cork gasket material, leather, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) polyamides, and certain thermoplastic or thermoset polymers. The Yammy fuel additive should help. I became a big fan of the Marine Sta-bil for ethanol fuel. Hope this helps. Edited by Shep 8/7/2013 9:35 AM | ||
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terroreyes![]() |
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Member Posts: 300 Location: Lincoln Park, Mi | The additives don't do anything for the compatibility issue with the seals and hoses. It just stops phase separation of ethanol fuels. If anything, you're adding even more alcohol to your fuel with them. Not enough to cause an issue, but most of them do contain alcohols. | ||
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stacker![]() |
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Member Posts: 2445 Location: Fremont, Wisconsin | You need to understand the differences in alcohol. Grain alcohol, that is ethanol, is bound to a gas molecule at the factory. Over time the molecules will separate from each other and the grain alcohol will fall to the bottom of the tank. It will then attract water but will not bind to the water molecule. Isopropyl alcohol with bind itself to a molecule of water and burn it as it goes through the fuel system. I know people say you should not add MORE alcohol, but it s two different alcohols. To remove grain alcohol from the tank you need to use a additive that binds to the ethanol. Enzyme additives such as startron or phazer are good choices to keep your fuel tank clean. By keeping the tank clean you will not be ingesting grain alcohol into the fuel system to deteriorate the fuel lines. When grain alcohol is in the system bound to a gas molecule, it does little if any harm. It is when it is separated that it becomes a destructive bugger. Being proactive on your fuel system makes more sense then being reactive. | ||
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terroreyes![]() |
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Member Posts: 300 Location: Lincoln Park, Mi | I understand them and know which can aziotrope water off. Formulary Chemical Engineer by day. ![]() ![]() I was just pointing out the misnomer that people think additives will stop the compatibility issue. With the compatibility issue of elastomers, coatings, and alcohols, the alcohol type doesn't make a huge difference. They're all destructive to alcohol sensitive materials. Adding a fraction of a percent of IPA to your fuel isn't going to push the compatibility issue over the top, as I stated, like an addition of 5% more ethanol might, as Dan found out. I use Sea Foam or QuicKleen in every tank myself, as well as ethanol Stabil. Edited by terroreyes 8/13/2013 5:44 PM | ||
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walleye express![]() |
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![]() Member Posts: 2680 Location: Essexville, MI./Saginaw Bay. | Now I don't want you to Chemical Geeks to get into a high-tec fight over this post. Hell, it took me a while to understand the "Yellow Snow" warning and theory. ![]() ![]() I took the boat out yesterday on the river with the girlfriend for Salmon since the new replacements, and she did everythng better. I mean the boat not the girlfriend. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Edited by walleye express 8/14/2013 10:48 AM Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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terroreyes![]() |
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Member Posts: 300 Location: Lincoln Park, Mi | Great to hear! Chemical people don't argue. We debate. lol A River trip sounds great. Still need to learn how to catch those trout and salmon we have up here! Edited by terroreyes 8/14/2013 3:32 PM | ||
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walleye express![]() |
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![]() Member Posts: 2680 Location: Essexville, MI./Saginaw Bay. | The river action can start as early as late September depending on the temps then. PM Me your phone numbers and I'll call you when the bite gets started. ![]() | ||
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