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Member
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Location: Menasha, WI | When I winterized my Johnson 25hp yesterday, I drained the lower unit oil and it was a milky grey color -- I assume that indicates the presence of water.
Is this a big problem? I've read elsewhere that a little seepage is normal on older motors. If I change the gear lube regularly, will I be OK? |
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Member
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Location: Appleton wi | There's a seal on the prop shaft that wears out over years or you hit a rock hard enough that it slightly damaged the seal. Do you have any dings on your prop? |
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Member
Posts: 1314
Location: Menasha, WI | No prop damage. It is a late 1970s motor so some wear is likely. Is it something I should replace immediately? |
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Posts: 3899
| I change my lower unit lube 2 times a year. July and Novemebr when I put her up for the year. I check it a couple times in the fall to avoid any issues with freezing and cracking the case. Change it when you put it up, and you know you have good stuff to start out with in spring. |
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Member
Posts: 1314
Location: Menasha, WI | I did change the gear lube yesterday (and also in August when I aquired the boat). I should have been more specific in my last post -- should I change the seals immediately? or is it OK to run with what appears to be a relatively minor water seepage into the lower unit? |
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| Viking:
A seasons worth of usage with start to break down the gear lube and turn it milky gray. Cheapest insurance is to change the washers EVERY TIME you change the gear lube. They are designed to be compressed 1 time and after that they lose the ability to seal completely. Buy a 12 or 25 pack from your dealer and change them each time you change the gear lube-better safe than sorry-especially for the low cost. |
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Location: Menasha, WI | That's the kind of useful information I was looking for. Thanks Lance. |
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| Viking it needs to be addressed and the first thing to do is take it to a marine dealer and have them presure check it to find where the water is coming in from just changing the washers may not be enough and new seals will have to be put in. when water sits in the lower unit it rusts the bearing causing premature failure there should never be any water in the lower. bring down to Moon marine in Fondy it will take 5 min to check and wont cost you 920-907-8021 if you have any questions Jim |
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Posts: 1406
| Viking, Milky grey for a 1970, should be fine as long as you change the lube often. When was the last time you changed your car engine oil, did it change colors? I have a 15hp Johnson, change the lube 2-3 times a year. been moisture in it for about 5-6 years now everytime, Sure it needs a seal job. Mine has an o-ring seal on the drain plugs, probably Buna-N maybe it's Viton material but either way it doesn't deform under pressure unless a large amount of heat is applied (meaning there are other problems.) I highly doubt that the o-ring is made of EPDM which "might" deform when tightened. Have owned boats for 30 years changed lube once or twice a year, never changed the o-ring and only had to do one seal job on a motor and I fish alot. always have lube in your lower unit and you won't have any problems, moisture will rust a dry surface and last time I pulled a lower unit apart the bearing is completely covered with lube so I don't see how it would rust. When you drain your lower unit and water comes out along with lube you can do a seal job. As long as there are 2 guys here fighting for your business, tell them to post a price to do a seal job. vs. complete lower unit rebuild (bearing etc).
Good Luck
Tyee |
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| Just a question for tyee, what color does your vehicle engine oil turn when it's old? It certainly isn't grey! Grey is THE color oil/lube turns when mixed with H2O!
I do NOT work in the marine industry and expect that since I live in Michigan, it won't be assumed that I too am trying to profit from this post. Maybe it is just a leaking gasket...but if it's something more, BIG $$ will flow from your cash well.
Viking, HAVE IT CHECKED! Even $100 now (I don't really know how much it costs) is better than a rebuild of the lower.
Just a thought. |
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| Another thought. Viking said that he already hanged the lube once this year...what 3 months ago? I think that is a little different than a 1970's vintage ware issue. I just sold a 1979 Johnson 35hp and NEVER was the lube anything other than a nice caramel color...every year. |
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| Another thought. Viking said that he already changed the lube once this year...what 3 months ago? Grey so soon is not right! I think that is a little different than a 1970's vintage wear issue. I just sold a 1979 Johnson 35hp and NEVER was the lube anything other than a nice caramel color...every year. |
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Member
Posts: 1406
| frogman, correct, point was that lubrication breaks down during normal operation, although water does not break down the lubricity or effectiveness of said lubricant. Water will cause coorision on metalic parts that are not lubricated and exposed to air. If you can do it for 100.00 I'd say go for it too. could it be that someone will tear apart a lower unit inspect, and change out all the seals for that price? I'd venture to guess that its a coupel hundred and once your in there, you may find he has to change the bearing anyway so why put off the inevitable, ehile your at it change out the water pump? whats another $100.00 or so. Now your looking at a 300-500 dollar bill for a 70's year class motor worth little more than that anyway? Point being if he changes the Lube this winter and gets all the water out and re-lubes he's good for a few months more of operation isn't he?
The boy has a 1953 Johnson 5hp on his 14' that has NO seals on it and heck he's been adding lube every few times out over the past few years, still does the job just fine. Viking if your mechanically inclined it isn't that hard to change the seals yourself with an owners manual and their fairly cheap as are most of the parts in the lower unit, also which can be done fairly easily. The bulk of the cost is going to be in labor. I'd make a few calls and ask what a complete overhaul is on the lower unit and what it would cost to change the seals only! See if ALL Seasons in Neenah is still in business he was reasonable on the older rigs, but then again there are many reputable guys around that could help you out, Even Denny! hehehe! Jim's offer is also enticing!
Good Luck
Tyee
Edited by tyee 11/25/2008 9:12 PM
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Member
Posts: 1314
Location: Menasha, WI | First, I want to thank everyone for taking their time for addressing my question and thank Jim at Moon Marine for his kind offer. I use a number of fishing websites and, despite the bickering over some tournament issues, WalleyeFirst is the best in my view because of the members and contributions like this.
In addition to the input here, I've also had some discussions with a few of my more mechanically inclined friends and family members. Most suggest taking an approach similar to what Tyee offers -- check and change the lube regularly and I should be OK. The boat is in storage until the run begins in Depere. I'll change the washers when I pull it out of storage and check/change the lube often after that.
I'm saving up for a new 4-stroke so I'd like to avoid any unnecessary expense in the meantime.
That reminds me, maybe I should start a new thread -- best 4-stroke in 25hp-30hp class?
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