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| On Winnebago what blade type and size, bead type (glass, plastic, round, faceted) and size would you recommend for trolling?
Thanks in advance. |
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Member
Posts: 265
Location: Combined Locks, WI | Here are a few things keep in mind with blades. The smaller the blade the faster you can go and the bigger the blade the slower you will need to go. So with that said, on days I want to cover a lot of water I will run a #3or #4 blade 1mph to 1.5mph. Other days if I am working a pod of fish I may run #5 blades or even a #6 blade at nothing more than 1mph. Colors is just dependant on conditions, it is also a confidence thing. I have blades that i can run just about all the time and catch fish because I have confidence in them. Don't limit yourself to just the metal colors of Gold, Copper, Silver ect. get some painted plades as well. Firetiger and even the holographic blades work well. If you get a chance check out the Tommy Harris blades, they are a premimum blade.
As for beads, I stick to 6mm and 8mm. I run the 8 mm out on the bay and the 6mm on winnebago. I like plastic facetted beads. Facetted beads will reflect more light then a plain round bead. Mix it up with your bead selection, be creative, try to imitate a paint job on your favorite crankbait, like clown or something. I buy my beads at craft stores, they have a very large selection. Here again try clear color beads and opaque (solid color) beads. Get some pearl beads also.
I am sure more people will offer their ideas as well but this should get you going in the right direction. |
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| I totally disagree with you. The bigger the blade the faster I have to go in my boat. The heavier and more mass from the blade the more speed needed to make it rotate.
What do others think?
If you buy your beads in craft stores make sure that they are smooth on the inside where your line goes through. I have had bad experiences using these because they cut or damage my line. Just another buyer beware. Check them out before you buy. |
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Member
Posts: 1195
Location: Orland Park, IL | Wow, nice thread. To further complicate things, whats defined as fast and slow? Over 1.5 mph or under? I would imagine the standard leader length, around 48", is ok?
And what the heck do you use to store these theengs? I can see it now, my crawler harness birds next. The lindy extreme rigger looks nice, but plenty bulky. I remember readin about using a slab of blue insulation and storage. Not a problem for me now, since they are nicely wound in zeep lock back. But once used, I can see some problems. |
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Member
Posts: 340
Location: McFarland, WI | In an effort to increase the number of blades you need I'll interject the need for different styles. Colorado blades run the slowest. If you want to kick up the speed consider going to Indiana blades and then to willow leaf. Drag varies with the style. You should also add in the hatchet or doc Sheldon blades for a different vibration. Quick change clevises allow you to change up easily. Consider bringing markers along to modify colors. A pearlescent blade can be changed to any color quite easily and you can also add reflective tape. The true fun is experimenting.
Larry Strelow
McFarland, WI |
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| M komo I think I have the ultimate storing package lol I use the Kids noodle that is used in pools. I wrap my harnesses then I get clear plastic sheet from Walmart the heaviest I think is 8 mil cut it to fit the tube then wrap that over the riggs. it is self sticking and yu can then put it in any box you want . I some times use a rubber band to hold it together it really works |
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Member
Posts: 538
| Guest,
I am guessing that what the Rocket man was saying is that you "can" go faster with smaller blades than with larger blades.
The point that smaller blades turn at lower speeds and more speed is needed to turn larger blades is also valid. It just depends how one frames the response. So, as it turns out, we all agree!
Take care,
Jim O |
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Member
Posts: 538
| Guest,
I am guessing that what the Rocket man was saying is that you "can" go faster with smaller blades than with larger blades.
The point that smaller blades turn at lower speeds and more speed is needed to turn larger blades is also valid. It just depends how one frames the response. So, as it turns out, we all agree!
Take care,
Jim O |
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Member
Posts: 265
Location: Combined Locks, WI | Thanks Jim.
To give you an example of what I mean, last year during the MWC tournament on Winnebago we were speed trolling crawler harnesses. Speed Trolling? what do I mean? We were pulling our harnesses at 1.4-1.6 MPH. That is pretty fast when it comes to harnesses. Most of the time people that pull harnesses will pull anywhere from .5mph to 1.0 mph. In order to go 1.5 mph you need to goto a smaller blade or you will incounter problems trying to run that fast with a larger blade.
I, when fishing the Bay, will generally run nothing smaller than a #5 blade and up to #7 blades. I can get these large blades to rotate at .5 mph, and will generally troll at about .7-.8 mph, sometimes as fast as 1.0 but not too often faster than 1mph. When running big blades you only want the blade to just rotate, that way it gives off a large flash and a large thumping action.
Another reason to run faster with smaller blades, besides covering more water, is you also have the option to run cranks on one side and harnesses on the other side. I seldom do this but I know of anglers that do this method. |
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| I am going to have to agree with Jonny Rocket on this one. Smaller blades can be trolled faster than larger blades. I have seen big blades spin out (no pun intended) and come to the surface because of going too fast. |
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| I have a question. I quit fishing with crawler harnesses last year due to the fact that I caught plenty of walleyes with cranks. I noticed that I would spent lots more of my time catching the Lucky Stones and Whiteys with harnesses than compared to cranks. I would still catch the occasional pie plate on cranks, but with the worms, sometimes it just seemed like they would hit immediately no matter what depth I fished. Am I alone on this? |
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| yes you are. sounds like you have no idea what depths your running your baits at.Something you need to work on. |
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| What depth do you recommend running harnesses at? |
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Member
Posts: 514
Location: Darboy USA | I usually fish the top 12 feet in about 17 or 18 fow, and the best depths in my opinion are 3-6 feet down only no matter where you are trolling. Obviously there will be eyes on the bottom and bouncers work well for targeting those, but the fish that are higher up are the ones that are actively feeding and usually easier to catch.
I've found that if I'm getting sheeps I'm way too deep with my spinners! |
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| Thanks for the suggestion. Fishing Walleyes 3-6 ft below the surface was unheard of to me until the last few years. Even when I catch them that high I dont understand. |
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