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| Jump to page : 1 2 Now viewing page 2 [25 messages per page] Walleye Fishing -> General Discussion -> Rigging for multi-species setups |
| Message Subject: Rigging for multi-species setups | |||
buckmyster |
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Member Posts: 39 | i own a tuffy 1760. i live in mi. on the leelanau penn. surrounded by lake mi. i go 13 miles out in no bigger than 3 to 4's for salmon and yes i get wet when crosswinding waves. unless you have a 26'ter, so are you. never been scared in it though. the larger tuffy's seem to have to big of a front deck which means limited space in back for trolling. the ranger has the storage decks going on. the lund when you stand up my knees are already above the gunwhales so your half way out already, and i'm short!! i'd look at the skeeters or a large tiller. huge area with same hulls and unless your tourn. fishing it's not about speed. i think tritons have the storage decks like the rangers. there isn't a perfect boat out there i don't think. | ||
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| hgmeyer |
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Member Posts: 794 Location: Elgin, Illinois | Fastest, driest and smoothest... Triton (IMO). Don't own one but would be myu first choice. Second, would be a Tuffy, then Yarcraft. I kniow about the convenience of the Ranger storage boxes but I want that higher side and knees up against the sides in rough water while netting/reeling (The Triton is similar but the storage area "seems" smaller/narrower so you can still get up against the sides in the middle of the boat)... Edited by hgmeyer 5/12/2010 10:08 PM | ||
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| Gings |
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Member Posts: 21 | I think the floors in a Lund are a few inches higher and I hit my knees/shins on the inside gunnel and it kinda feels like you could fall out a LITTLE easier. Rangers are known for spearing waves. The rest are all excellent options IMO. For rigging, it depends upon the boat. If you want to go the cheap route, go to Home Depot and buy 2 threaded nipples & 4 bases, maybe $10 - $15. You can get 4 inchers up to 12" are stock, but you can cut and thread them to whatever height you want. You don't have to bend over too far if you go higher, although higher = more torque. Mount the base to the boat where you want it, and when you don't want it, unscrew it and your done, it takes literally 5 seconds. Mount the other base to the top and bolt your downrigger or swivel to that. You can mount one base on the port and starboard side and get a plank to span across the back, but I would not suggest that for two reasons: 1) it is a PITA and you can't get to your motors like you wanted, it also makes netting more challenging. 2) I'd suggest only getting two downriggers, and mounting one off each rear corner on its own pedestal or track. The days of running 4 riggers off a 20 footer with a 100" beam are nearing their end, with water clarity and the production you get from leadcore, copper, & stealth tactics, etc. 4 downriggers are just not the way to go anymore (except at dawn and dusk and around the harbor during "combat" fishing in the fall. Plus, you can stack or use sliders on the ones you do have. OR, you can spend the money and get a track system. Works the same, but looks better. Great Lakes Angler, (GLangler.com) has TONS of info on this subject. | ||
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| Shep |
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Member Posts: 3899 | If you are a true multi-spieces angler, I don't care what boat you have. You simply cannot put all your gear in your storage. I fish walleyes, muskies, salmon, and panfish. Even if I had a boat with the big side storage bins in the rear, I wouldn't have enough storage for all my gear to cover all my angling. Saying you have room for everything is bull. As for using bags or tackle boxes? I usually have a couple with me for each type of fish I'm after that day. I just move them from rear to front when I shut the big motor down, and vice-versa before I take off. Takes but a few seconds, and I don't think I have ever tripped over them. I've also been in lot's of Rangers where the owner has bags and tackle boxes, too. People talk about the Lund aluminum boat floors being a couple inches higher. Higher than what? If you measure them, the floor to the gunnels is more than the floor to the top of the storage bins on a Ranger or Triton. Also, there is more floorspace in a Tuffy, Lund, Skeeter, or Yar-Craft, than there is in a Ranger or Triton. Those side stroage bins in the back are knee killers in 4+ footers. I've been in them in those conditions many times, and it is the most uncomfortable boat to fish out of. As far as the board across the back? It's cheap, is easy to put on and remove, and store. Depending on how often you get out, it is a good option on some boats. Like the Lunds with the high floors, it's not too high to step over to net fish. I agree with the track systems, if you have the money to spend on them. If you're doing a lot of switching, they are probably the best option, and the most versatile for rigging for different spieces. Bert's, Tite-lok, etc. There are several out there. | ||
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| JST FISH |
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| I have just skimmed threw this forum as I am leaving for Bay City, the number one reason I run a Ranger is Wendy and her staff. I have had many problems solved in the parking lot by her techs. I could go on and on abouit storage, ride etc. But service and getting a helping hand haven't found a dealer better... John Schneider | |||
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| Almost-B-Good |
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Member Posts: 102 | I had my old Alumacraft 185 Competitor set up for the big lake salmon and trout fishing and it was great for walleyes and good for muskies too. This boat has a very large rear deck area with the console more forward than others. That translates into fishing room for runnng riggers, netting and setting rods. It was like a dance hall in the back and that is what you want. Room up front is OK for running the boards, but not needed that much for anything else. I mounted two Big Johns straight back over the stern, permanently attached to the gunnels and had ball cradles on the corners for them. The riggers came off the plates easily leaving only the flush plate, nothing that would be in the way. I ran Rivieras up from the Big Johns about 3 feet ahead of them with Cannon ball retievers on the cables. I put on 6 foot booms, milled 18" risers to set at a 45 degree angle, not just 90's and swing over the tops of the Big Johns. That way I had a good wide spread on the four riggers with the boom ends all in a row so I could make some serious turns if nescessary. Had four tube rod holders on the insides boplted together at a forward facing angle so I could run four dipsey rods. Had rod holders screwed to the gunnels up and down the sides for board rods. I had the trolling motor on a slide bracket so I could remove it. I bought another trolling motor base casting, bolted on a 4 X 8 block of wood drilled for 3" PVC and slid it into the trolling motor bracket. I had a 10' PVC mast with reels on the sides that worked my wooden double boards. I could run the boards 125 out on each side no problem with the ability to run up to 4 board lines on each side. All in all I could have set 16 lines and had them all functional without double stacking or running sliders. Best part was the Bystrom holders, Rivieras and Big Johns all were attached to flush mount plates. I could add them or remove them as needed for whatever I fished for. I added plastic holders too for walleye rods and even then the boat was clean. There is no way a glass boat with curved gunnels and goofy stern lines (Ranger) gives you the ability to do all that. That Alumacraft was the best option. That was a 1991 rig and I used it for 17 seasons before I let my friends' son buy it from me when I gave up Lake Michigan fishing. It is still one heck of a fishing rig for big water. If you want some pictures, I might have some I could hunt up. I | ||
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| buckmyster |
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Member Posts: 39 | i almost forgot. i run 4 downriggers from my 1760. the two on the very back cormers are pointing out very slightly and i set them no deeper than 60 ft. down. the other two are on swivel mounts have way in the middle of the boat and they have 4 ft. arms. set them strait out and these run no shallower than 70 ft. my boat is only 84" wide and i don't get tangled. no hair pin turns but i can turn to net a fish on the inside. | ||
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