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Member
Posts: 102
| I was wondering if anyone running an X-190 had any input from experimenting with props or weight distributions to minimize chine walk.
I ran a 21 Laser II and at 60mph (and way too many rpms) the back of the boat wiggled back and forth.
I'm running a 23 Tempest now and at 60 it starts to chine walk (with the nose oscillating). With a little corrective steering I can get it to slow down the bow oscillation a little as the speed goes up to 63. The prop I've got now spins about 5800 with a good load and that's still too much, as the sweet spot for my E-TEC 200HO is 5600 according to BRP.
I was wondering if a 23 Rev4 would minimize the chine walk and get my rpms down? I talked to my prop guy and was told chine walk comes from a bad hull or a loose steering setup. I don't have solid mounts on the motor and don't know if they are available. The lines were bled last fall so the steering is about as tight as I can figure out how to make it. Read about a few people running bass boats that said the higher they ran the motor the less chine walk they had. If so would the Rev4 be able to run higher than the Tempest? With the jack plate I'm running almost 5" above the transom now, and I start to lose speed before I start to loose water pressure so I could conceivably go a little higher yet. I'm running full trim above 55mph, if that makes a difference.
I don't run wide open too often, but every once in a while it is just plain fun to splatter a few bugs on the windshields. Anyone else have this chine walk problem and beat it? |
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Member
Posts: 49
| I run a CMC hyd Jackplate on my 2060 ,225 ,In had to install a 15% shim plate between the Jackplate and the transom as the plate followed the angle of the transom limiting the lift and the trim . I run a warmed up 25 small hub throphy prop with the insert. When the boat is loaded light it flies and does chine walk a bit but I now have the ability to adjust the trim etc and drive through it. Most walleye boats don't go fast enough to chine walk. Chine walking can also be cured by a good prop shop . The problem is not exclusively hull design ,power has alot to do with it. You may want to check the bottom of your boat I am not familiar with the 190 but the 1890 and the 2060 have a built in hook in the surface at the rear of the boat in four places I believe they call it Wedgeing .It is put there to control low speed annoying porpising but if you have a hyd jackplate you can contol that. I removed most of the lower Wedges it now gets on the pad PDQ . Those wedges serve to keep the bow down and your engine is fighting it with a bow lifting prop like the tempest. Tuffy is a great boat there is nothing wrong with the basic hull design.  |
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| i can't speak to solving your chinewalk issues specifically as it's not something i know much about, but i can comment on my experiences with that same boat.
in '08 and '09 i ran two different X-190s with 200hp Optis and 23p Tempest props, both boats have the lifting wedges.
WOT with light load and clean prop i ran 64.9mph; i wouldn't ever get any chinewalk until 63-64mph, and that only occured when the water was calm. if there was any light chop at all and it actually ran smoother.
considering my experience and what you describe, i'd play around some more with the motor height/prop/jackplate options. maybe a less lift and a bit more thrust?
if you've got someone nearby who's into boat racing, they'd be a good person to talk with about it as those ultra-fast boats are where they really have to watch out for chinewalk, and they get good at tuning it out. my local mechanic races Merc motors and he's been a big help for me.
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